Key takeaways

  • When you first start using retinol, you may experience retinol burn; symptoms include:
    • painful irritation
    • dry, flakey skin
    • skin discoloration
  • Retinol burn may occur because:
    • the skin product you’re using includes a very high concentration of retinol
    • your skin is getting used to the effects of retinol and may become irritated in response to the high rate of skin cell turnover
  • Here’s what you can do to prevent retinol burn:
    • start by using a product with a lower concentration of retinol
    • apply moisturizer at the same time as your retinol product
    • don’t use retinol on inflamed, irritated skin
    • remember to apply sunscreen as retinol makes your skin more prone to sunburn

Retinol is a popular ingredient in many skin care products. It’s especially well known for promoting collagen production, which can decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

A 2019 research review showed that while medical research has established retinol’s benefits, using it regularly can cause a painful side effect called retinol burn or retinol dermatitis.

Let’s examine the causes and treatment of retinol burn and ways to prevent it from happening.

As you age, the rate at which your skin cells turn over slows down. Retinol is a form of vitamin A that speeds up cell turnover in your skin. The same review of research suggests retinol has many benefits, including:

  • strengthening your skin barrier
  • sealing in water
  • improving skin elasticity

When they first start using retinol, some people experience retinol burn, also known as retinol irritation or routinization.

More highly concentrated retinol products (such as tretinoin) carry a higher risk of causing retinol burn.

Symptoms of retinol burn include:

  • dry skin
  • painful irritation
  • skin discoloration
  • flaking

When you first start using retinol, your skin cells change how they behave. This change impacts your skin’s top layer (the epidermis) and the deeper layers (the dermis).

May appear when you first start using retinol

During this initial phase of use, your skin is getting used to the effects of retinol and may develop a bit of irritation, or contact dermatitis.

In theory, retinol makes your skin cell turnover faster. The increased cell turnover temporarily sloughs off more dead skin cells.

This creates a lag time before new, healthy cells come to the surface of your skin. Your new skin is exposed before it’s ready, and discoloration and irritation can result.

May appear after using a product with a high concentration of retinol

Retinol burn occurs after you use skin care products that introduce your skin to high amounts of retinol. Retinol burn typically occurs within 24 hours.

Even with home remedies, it can take about a week for the visible signs of retinol burn to dissipate.

Retinol burn presents as a different experience from having an allergy to retinol or a typical burn injury.

As your sensitivity to retinol decreases, your skin should calm and return to its typical texture.

Retinol burns typically heal as the skin adjusts to the retinol ingredients. You can also treat retinol burns at home.

Before you take any steps to treat retinol burn, stop using products that contain retinol. You should not keep putting retinol on your skin while it shows visible signs of injury.

  • If your skin becomes discolored and inflamed to the point where you are in pain, ice the area or apply a cold compress to help soothe it.
  • Keep your skin routine as basic and gentle as possible while your skin heals from retinol burn. Rinsing with cool water once daily and skipping makeup may help.
  • You can use an over-the-counter (OTC) hydrocortisone cream to treat inflammation and discoloration but use it sparingly, especially around your eyes. Do not use any steroid cream for longer than 2 weeks at a time as they can thin out your skin.
  • Soothing botanicals like aloe vera or witch hazel may stimulate healing and treat symptoms of burning and chafing.
  • Applying a gentle, hypoallergenic moisturizer can help rehydrate your skin. It can also seal moisture and any other treatment products into your skin so it can heal and provide relief from flaking and dryness.

If you’re having a retinol burn reaction to a product that a dermatologist or healthcare professional prescribed, it’s best to contact them and describe your symptoms.

Ask questions to ensure that your side effects are typical.

Any retinol burn that causes severe pain warrants a call to a dermatologist to schedule a visit.

You can take steps to prevent retinol burn before it happens.

Start with a lower concentration of retinol

Prescription-strength retinoids are infamous in the skin care community for causing retinol burn. If you want to avoid retinol burn, avoid starting with high dose retinoid products.

You can check the labels on skin care products and talk with a dermatologist to avoid the following ingredients:

  • tazarotene
  • adapalene
  • tretinoin

When starting a new skin care routine, use products with a .03% concentration of retinol or less.

If you need a stronger dose, you can slowly work up to it instead of putting your skin into shock, which is essentially what high dose retinol does if your skin isn’t accustomed to it.

Experts recommend you start applying retinol products only twice a week and slowly increase frequency if tolerated.

Buffer retinol with your moisturizer

A technique known as “buffering” can also protect your skin from the worst symptoms of retinol burn.

Applying retinol at the same time as you apply your moisturizer dilutes the retinol without rendering it completely ineffective. This can help your skin build a tolerance to retinol without drying out.

Make sure you use sunscreen

Sunscreen is always important as a protective measure for your skin. But it becomes even more important if you use retinol or any other form of vitamin A on your face.

Using any form of retinol makes your skin more prone to sunburn. Sun damage combined with retinol burn is a recipe for skin discoloration, inflammation, and more. When choosing a sunscreen, opt for one that’s:

For best results, apply sunscreen during the day before using makeup and other moisturizers. Save your retinol for nighttime application.

How long does it take for a retinol burn to heal?

The visual signs of a retinol burn can heal in about a week. The exact length depends on the severity of the irritation. You may be able to speed the process by following a gentle skin care routine as your skin heals.

Does retinol burn damage skin?

A retinol burn can cause older skin cells to slough off before newer ones are ready to take their place. This can cause discoloration and irritation and potentially damage the skin’s moisture barrier.

Why does retinol burn my skin?

Retinol can cause skin irritation and discoloration as your skin gets used to it. This can happen if you use a higher concentration of retinol (above .3%) or apply it too frequently. Retinol can also increase your risk of sunburn, so it is important to apply sunscreen daily.

Some people may also be more susceptible to irritation from retinol based on their genetics.

Retinol burn typically goes away on its own, but you may have a few flare-ups before your skin grows used to retinol ingredients.

Treatment at home and DIY prevention tricks can help manage your symptoms in most cases.

If you have symptoms that resemble an allergic reaction (such as hives) or if your symptoms of retinol burn are painful and severe, discontinue use and contact your healthcare professional.